Continuing with the news of Vacheron Constantin’s new Watches & Wonders products, the Maison, which celebrated its 270th anniversary this year and made a splash with the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication-La Première watch featuring a total of 41 complications (>> Go to the related Timeforum report), also attracted attention by unveiling various other 270th anniversary timepieces. Let’s take a look at the new pieces that shine with the expertise and technology of a traditional high-end watchmaker.
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A new Manufacture caliber has been born that combines two of the most iconic complications of Haute Horlogerie: the perpetual calendar and the tourbillon. Based on the characteristic design of the automatic tourbillon perpetual calendar caliber 2160, which debuted in the Fiftysix and Traditionnelle collections in 2018, the integration of an ultra-thin perpetual calendar module of less than 1 mm has allowed the presentation of a new high complication movement that is surprisingly compact given its functions. For Vacheron Constantin, which has reached a certain ‘realm’ where it can freely command various complications, such as Les Cabinotiers Armillaries tourbillon perpetual calendar – planetaria (2021) and Les Cabinotiers de Berkeley Grande Complication (2024), which will succeed the 57260 as the world’s most complicated mechanical replica watches with a whopping 63 complications, this level of update would not have been so difficult.
Continuing the design of the slim (5.65 mm thick) automatic tourbillon base with the peripheral rotor type, the new Manufacture Caliber 2162 QP/270 also follows the traditional slow frequency. Composed of a total of 324 components and 30 jewels, the movement measures 32.79 mm (13 ½’’’ lignes) and 6.55 mm thick, it beats at 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz) and guarantees a power reserve of 72 hours, slightly reduced from the 80 hours of the original base.
The new perpetual calendar function features a patented Secure Drive system, allowing for easy adjustment of the calendar function both clockwise and counterclockwise. Normally, tampering with a perpetual calendar would put a strain on the already programmed calendar mechanism, which could naturally lead to damage to the related wheels, so it is best to avoid it. Vacheron Constantin is ready to captivate watch enthusiasts with a system that is both “user-friendly” and safe. Of course, as it is a perpetual calendar, in theory, as long as the watch is functioning properly, it should not require any separate adjustment for up to 2,100 years.
The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is presented in noble platinum. The case is 42 mm in diameter and 11.1 mm thick, and boasts a slim and elegant profile despite its functionality thanks to the innovative peripheral rotor design. At 6 o’clock on the dial, just like the traditional Traditionnelle Tourbillon, the large openwork structure exposes the tourbillon cage, which symbolizes the Maltese cross. The small seconds hand is replaced by a blued screw point at the end of the tourbillon cage, which rotates once per minute. In addition, the three subdials at the top and each hand display the date (3 o’clock), day of the week (9 o’clock), and month (12 o’clock), while a small aperture on the right indicates leap years.
However, the dial is different from the regular products at a glance. The Maltese cross motif, which symbolizes Vacheron Constantin, is engraved on an 18K gold plate with a traditional hand-guilloché decoration using a rose engine lathe. The guilloché decoration is located between the 7 and 8 o’clock positions and even includes a long, straight pattern as if light is spreading out, giving a glimpse of the Maison’s determination to continue its journey of high watchmaking. In addition, the applied indexes and dauphine-style hands on the dial are made of 18K gold.
The transparent sapphire crystal case back reveals the beautiful details of the new manufacture caliber bearing the Hallmark of Geneva, certifying that it is a high-end movement made in Geneva. The upper surfaces of the bridges are finished with a delicate brushed technique called Côte unique, which differentiates it from the conventional Côtes de Genève (Geneva stripes). Although it is a finishing technique with a very old history, it is noteworthy that replica Vacheron Constantin has rediscovered it. In contrast to the characteristic minimalist look, the edges of the bridges are elegantly chamfered (anglage) and polished at a 45-degree angle, and the 22K gold peripheral rotor decorated with a double-wing hobnail pattern creates a dramatic contrast and adds extravagance. Each bridge is engraved with the Geneva Seal, the Maison’s historic brand logo, Switzerland, etc. and filled with gold tones. A special emblem symbolizing the 270th anniversary was added to one side, so that anyone who sees it can tell at a glance that it is a 270th anniversary edition. The platinum case back frame is also engraved with a limited edition mark in cursive along with a unique number (No. ***/127), adding to its collection value.
The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar (Ref. 6300/000P-H056) is a limited edition of 127 pieces, and the retail price has not yet been set. It is expected to be around the late 300 million won range.
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